A Look at Cornwall (5): The Lost Gardens of Heligan

We visited the Lost Gardens of Heligan in the afternoon of the second day of our holiday in Cornwall in June 2016. After spending a full Monday morning and early afternoon at Tintagel (the subject of A Look at Cornwall (4)) we decided to stop off on our way back to Newlyn for a quick look round this fabulous site. It was a gloriously sunny afternoon and we could have done with many more hours there.

This map shows where Heligan is located in Cornwall. (X marks the spot). The site is a mile and a half from Mevagissey and six miles from St. Austell. It’s also only ten miles from another famous Cornish attraction, The Eden Project – which we haven’t visited since 2003.

X marks the approximate location of the Lost Gardens of Heligan, near Mevagissey, Cornwall UK

There are many wonderful gardens in Cornwall, all of them well worth a visit, but as the name suggests, the Lost Gardens of Heligan are particularly special. Not only are they amongst Cornwall’s finest gardens but – as you might guess – the word ‘Lost’ is the reason why they’re special. The story of how they were ‘found’ again – in other words, restored – is interesting as well as being an incredible feat.

At Heligan today there are over 200 acres of Victorian walled gardens, working buildings including bothies, a potting shed and a tool shed. There are exotic glasshouses, pleasure gardens, lawns, lakes and ponds and many acres of orchard as well as a farm (Home Farm, where lovely old breeds of cattle, sheep and pigs are reared) 22 acres of subtropical jungle and a 30 acre ‘Lost Valley’. But for many years following WWI, the beautiful gardens lay neglected and overgrown, the glasshouses broken and useless. So what is the story behind all this?

Heligan House was built by William Tremayne in 1603. It was the home of the Tremayne family who controlled over 1000 acres in the area. It is still privately owned and not open to the public.

Heligan House. The house is in private occupation and not open to the public. Source: geograph.org.uk Author: Neil Clifton. Creative Commons

Before WWI, the estate was completely self-sufficient, having its own quarries, woods, farms, a brickworks – the earliest in Cornwall – a flour mill, sawmill, brewery and productive orchards and gardens. Apart from luxury goods, the only imports were lime for fertilisers and coal for heating.

Most of the gardens and ornamental woodlands were created during the 19th century by the successive efforts of Henry Hawkins Tremayne, John Tremayne and John Claude Tremayne, all noted botanists and horticulturalists.

Henry Hawkins Tremayne (1766-1829) in black coat and waistcoat with aubergine lining, white coat, powdered hair. Source: Christies. Author: Henry Bone (1755-1834) Public Domain

By 1900 they had amassed a wonderful collection of trees and shrubs from all over the world. Follies and temples were scattered throughout and walks and rides were created. The local community depended on the estate for income: it was the centre of the community, with 20 house staff and 22 garden staff.

But the First World War changed all this, just as it did with most stately homes at that time (as shown in the fictional Downton Abbey).

In 1914, the male staff at Heligan ‘signed up’ for active service, most being sent out to the trenches on the Western Front. Heligan House was taken over by the War Office and became a convalescent home for officers. The house was returned to the family in 1919, but after the war, only 6 of the 22 garden staff returned, the rest having not survived the battles in Flanders.

The following picture is from an information board at Heligan…

…accompanied by these notes:

We know the names of 13 outdoor staff who served in World War One and have sown a field of Flanders Poppies in thankful memory of all of them, including 4 who served and returned. (Individual photos were given by relatives of those brave Heligan men.)

During the Second World War, the house was allocated to the US army (practice landings for D-Day took place a mile away at Pentewan Beach). The gardens remained with the Tremaynes, but for many years after the war the gardens were simply neglected, remaining in a time capsule – efectively, ‘lost’. But, in 1990, a chance meeting between John Willis, a Tremayne family member, Tim Smit (an archaeologist) and John Nelson saw the start of an amazing journey of restoration. When Smit and Nelson discovered a tiny cubicle at the bottom of a small, walled garden (since known as the Thunderbox Room – yes, the toilet) and saw the pencil signatures written on the flaking plaster walls, evoking past lives, they knew that the restoration project must be undertaken in the names of those former Heligan workers.

The Thunderbox room at Heligan (far doorway, through which the child has just emerged).

Fading, pe-WWI pencil signatures on the flaking lime walls of the ‘Thunderbox’ at Heligan. Photo from the same information board as the one of the servicemen above.

Before I share some photos of the parts of Heligan we managed to see in the short time we had, here are a few images (from information boards again) of what the site looked like in 1990, i.e. before restoration started:

And this photo shows what the head gardener’s hut looks like now, after careful restoration:

And these are the bee skeps now, on Bee Bole Lawn, which we passed on our walkabout:

In the following photos, I have tried to show things we saw along the way as we walked round. We had no particular, pre-arranged  route, and just went where the fancy took us.

This is the Entrance:

From the ticket office, we set off along the paths towards Flora’s Garden:

Next we spent some time investigating the different walled gardens and outhouses:

From the walled gardens we headed along the Woodland Walk, where we found some great woodland sculptures, all created by local artists.

This is my final set of photos before this post becomes ridiculously long. They are of an area of Heligan known as the Jungle. It covers an area of eight acres with what is described as ‘a watercourse’ running along the floor of the valley that links four ponds. The ‘big house’ looks down the valley, which winds its way to Mevagissey. It houses a collection of sub tropical plants and was created a hundred and fifty years ago when a craze for collecting exotic plants swept the country. Cornwall’s mild climate is ideal for such species. Visitors follow boardwalks along the valley.

Eventually we headed back to the entrance, with Louise being disappointed at not having found the one place at Heligan we all remembered from 2003. It was simply some stone steps that Louise had taken a photo of. Some years later, she created a very lovely painting (acrylic on canvas) of the image – a huge one that stands on an easel. As we got closer to the cafe and shop we saw an interesting-looking opening between some rocks and decided to investigate. And there we found the steps – which we all duly photographed again.

 

Although we managed to see a lot of the gardens, there were areas of the site we didn’t have time to get to – including the Lost Valley and Home Farm – so they’re now at the top of the list for our next trip down to Cornwall. And next time, we’ll get there in plenty of time to enjoy a Cornish cream tea in the cafe. On this occasion, it had already closed. 😦

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About milliethom

I am a reader and writer of historical fiction with a keen interest in the Earth's history and all it involves, both physically and socially. I like nothing better than to be outdoors, especially in faraway places, and baking is something I do when my eyes need respite from my computer screen.
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20 Responses to A Look at Cornwall (5): The Lost Gardens of Heligan

  1. arv! says:

    What a lovely find. Looks like a treasure box. Great write up

    • milliethom says:

      These gardens are really lovely, Arv, and the story of their restoration is quite amazing. It took a lot of hard work and determination from a dedicated team. Like most Cornish sites, Heligan gets a lot of visitors from all round the world, especially in summer.

  2. draliman says:

    A lovely place. I’ve actually never been (the price is one factor!) but after seeing your photos it looks well worth the price, on a sunny day anyway. I shall consider it for my upcoming holidays 🙂

    • milliethom says:

      I know what you’re saying about the price, Ali. For adults it’s £13.50 each and £6.00 for children over five. It’s privately run, of course, unlike St Michael’s Mount. which is National Trust. I suppose Heligan’s only worth a visit if you love gardens. It is a beautiful place and on a lovely summer’s day it looks perfect. At least you won’t have to spend much on petrol/diesel if you do decide to go. After all, Heligan’s only six miles from St Austell. 🙂

  3. leggypeggy says:

    Great and informative. I’ve been keen to see the Eden Project and now there are lots more reasons to get to the area.

    • milliethom says:

      The Eden Project is definitely worth visiting, Peggy. I’m sure you’ll have read all about it and its overall purpose. The different biomes are well worth seeing. Heligan is quite different, but also educational. The history is fascinating and the many species are lovely to look at and just enjoy or find out where they came from.
      Hope you’re having a fab time in Helsinki!

  4. Joy Pixley says:

    What a lovely way to spend the day! And I learned something new: I’d never heard of bee skeps before, how interesting.

    • milliethom says:

      Heligan was a nice, relaxing visit, after all those steps at Tintagel earlier on.It’s a place to potter round and enjoy the great variety of species. Home Farm looks interesting, too, and we’ll get to that next time we go. I love the old breeds of farm animals. As for bee skeps, they’re just dome-shaped baskets and from what we read at the site, they were used by beekeepers for hundreds of years in the past. At Heligan, they had the skeps sitting in alcoves along a wall. Perhaps one of the communities in Eneana could keep honey bees in skeps. 🙂

  5. Susan Langer says:

    Beautiful pictures, Millie. Happy Mother’s Dayf from the US. I know you celebrate a different day over there.☺️

    • milliethom says:

      Thanks, Susan – and I hope you have a lovely Mother’s Day tomorrow, however you spend it. Yes, we had ours in March (the fourth Sunday in Lent) as it’s been since the Middle Ages. We do like to cling to our old traditions here. Lol. The stories about how Mother’s Day started in the US are interesting, too. 🙂

  6. What an amazing post Millie. As always you have the most interesting information and I learn something each time. Your pic’s are stunning ! Have a beautiful day. 🙂

    • milliethom says:

      Thank you, Lynne! The Lost Gardens of Heligan are a lovely place to wander round and spend a relaxing time. I imagine they would still look striking in the winter, especially to garden enthusiasts. Like most Cornish sites, Heligan gets very busy in the summer, especially July and August (school holidays). Have a great weekend, too, and enjoy your Mother’s Day. 🙂

  7. anroworld says:

    Your writing is delicate, stylish, always enjoy! I recognize the writer’s handwriting…

  8. milliethom says:

    What a lovely comment, Ann. Thank you! And I must add that I always enjoy reading your stylish posts, too. 🙂 Your videos are excellent.

  9. Looks like a lovely garden! I love the history of it all, something I feel is missing from places here in the states sometimes.

    • milliethom says:

      Thanks, Jason. Heligan is a lovely place and the history behind it makes it even more special. I know what you’re saying about loving history but, when all’s said and done, we have a very long and eventful one in Britain – so we have plenty of sites to visit (and blog about!). The US is a young and vibrant country, and you have many wonderful places to visit. There’s all the Native American history, too. There are many places in the US I’d give anything to see. 🙂

  10. Murielle Cyr says:

    Splendid post!

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